How to Crochet a Beanie for all sizes | The Hezzy Beanie

Who says moms can’t match with their sons? The Hezzy Beanie is now live! When I first created this beanie (in January of 2019!) I made it for my son who was almost two years old. That is why it is called the Hezzy Beanie. I then wanted to make myself a matching version so the we could actually have something that matches because it’s so hard to find cute things for both moms and their little boys. Originally I thought i was just going to write the adult size of it and the toddlers size but I ended up writing 7 sizes! The sizes are 0-3months, 3-6months, 6-12months, 12-24months, toddler, child, and adult. So lets crochet a beanie for all sizes!

The pattern is free here on my blog but if you would like an ad-free printable pdf you can purchase it on Ravelry. And don’t forget to pin it to your Pinterest boards so you can easily find it again. 

Mommy and me crochet beanies

*Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links that provide me with a small percentage of commission but do NOT cost you anything extra. Using these links help support my blog by providing me with a little extra income. I try to find the best prices possible for the items I recommend in order to help you. I recommend the products that I personally use or the next best options.

This beanie pattern was designed to look great on anyone whether it be little boys, little girls, or their moms and dads. The adult sized beanie is slouchy in the back, the children’s size is slightly slouchy and then the toddler and baby sizes are designed to be more fitted. When crocheting this pattern it is very important that you obtain gauge or the hats will not be the correct size. many of my testers had to go up in their hook size.

The patterns for each size will be all on this post they will be in order from 0-3months to adult.  

Before You Start:

Please do NOT copy, redistribute, or sell my pattern in any way. You may sell the finished item but please give me credits for the pattern. Please do not use my photos as your own. Feel free to tag me on Instagram @coz.e_creations and Facebook at Coz-E Creations Crochet by Elyssa with pictures of your finished product. Thank you, Elyssa Douds.

This pattern will use sc in the back loop for the brim. This means that instead of inserting your hook through both top loops, you insert it in the loop furthest away from you, which is the back loop.

 

This patterns also uses dc in the third loop. The third loop is the loop below the front and back loops of the dc. (see pic)  And if you still need help with this here is a an instructional video on Youtube by Heart Hook Home. The video is for half double crochet, but it is the same thing for double crochet). If it does not say in the third loop, in that row you just do regular double crochets. 

Abbreviations Used

Ch = Chain

Sc = Single crochet

Sc Blo = Single crochet in back loop only

Dc = Double crochet

Dc dec = Double crochet decrease

 

Sl st = Slip stitch  

Crochet Baby Beanies

0-3 Month pattern 12-13 inch brim 

5.00mm hook or hook needed to obtain gauge. 

 Gauge
 4 inches by 4 inches = 14 sc across by 14 rows high

It very important that you meet gauge! If you do not your hats may not be the right size. To check your gauge, ch 15, sc in second chain from hook and all the way down the chain to get 14 sc. Ch 1 turn, then crochet all the way back down. Repeat this until you have 14 rows. Then measure your square. If it is not 4 inches by 4 inches. You will need to change your hook size. If it is too small, go up a hook size and try again. If it is too big, you will need to go down a hook size and try again until you get your square as close to 4 inches by 4 inches as possible. 

Pattern

Brim: I crochet fairly loose and make my chains at the beginning of each row loose as well. If you crochet tighter you can either go up a hook size or just add more row to the band until you have a band length that stretches to 12-13 inches. This will fit most 0-3 month old’s heads.

Ch 7

Row1: Beginning in second ch from hook sc 6 down the remaining chains. Turn. (6 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1. Sc blo in each stitch. Turn (6 sc)

Row 3-30: Repeat row 2. (6 sc in each row)

Join your beginning of you band and the end of your band in a circle by slip stitching 7 holding both ends together.

Now you will begin the body of the hat and work your way up.

Row 1: After you sl st your band together ch 1 and begin working around the side of your band. Sc 34 around the band. (I try to put one sc in the end of each row of the band and add 1 extra sc around every 10th sc.) Sl st to your first sc to join.

If you added more rows to your band be sure to sc in every row and add 4 extra sc as you go around. Your total number of rows plus 4 will be your total number of dc for each row until row 5.

Row 2: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around. Sl st to first dc to join. (34 dc)

Row 3: Ch 2, dc in the third loop all the way around. Sl st to first dc to join. (34 dc)

Row 4:  Ch 2, Dc in each stitch all the way around. (34 dc)

Row 5: Ch 2, * In the third loop Dc in the first 2 stitches, dc dec over the next two stitches* Repeat from *to* all the way around. Sl st to the first dc to join. (26 dc)

Row 6: Ch 2, *Dc 1, dc dec over the next two stitches* Repeat from *to* all the way around. sl st to the first dc to join. (18 dc)

Row 7:  Ch 2, In the third loop, Dc dec over the first two stitches. Continue to dc dec all the way around. Sl st to first dc to join. (9 dc)

Fasten off leaving a long tail. Using the tail, sew the top of your beanie closed. I like to thread my needle through the front loop of each stitch, then pull tight to close. This gives it a nice clean close.

 

You can now weave in your ends and add a pom pom and tag if you’d like. 

3-6 Month Pattern 14-15 inch brim

5.00mm hook or hook needed to obtain gauge. 
 Gauge

4 inches by 4 inches = 14 sc across by 14 rows high

It very important that you meet gauge! If you do not your hats may not be the right size. To check your gauge, ch 15, sc in second chain from hook and all the way down the chain to get 14 sc. Ch 1 turn, then crochet all the way back down. Repeat this until you have 14 rows. Then measure your square. If it is not 4 inches by 4 inches. You will need to change your hook size. If it is too small, go up a hook size and try again. If it is too big, you will need to go down a hook size and try again until you get your square as close to 4 inches by 4 inches as possible. 

 Pattern

Brim: I crochet fairly loose and make my chains at the beginning of each row loose as well. If you crochet tighter you can either go up a hook size or just add more row to the band until you have a band length that stretches to 14-15 inches. This will fit most 3-6 month old’s heads.

Ch 8

Row1: Beginning in second ch from hook sc 7 down the remaining chains. Turn. (7 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1. Sc blo in each stitch. Turn (7 sc)

Row 3-33: Repeat row 2. (7 sc in each row)

Join your beginning of you band and the end of your band in a circle by slip stitching 7 holding both ends together.

Now you will begin the body of the hat and work your way up.

Row 1: After you sl st your band together ch 1 and begin working around the side of your band. Sc 37 around the band. (I try to put one sc in the end of each row of the band and add 1 extra sc around every 10th sc.) Sl st to your first sc to join.

If you added more rows to your band be sure to sc in every row and add 4 extra sc as you go around. Your total number of rows plus 4 will be your total number of dc for each row until row 6.

Row 2: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around. Sl st to first dc to join. (37 dc)

Row 3: Ch 2, dc in the third loop all the way around. Sl st to first dc to join. (37 dc)

Row 4-5: Repeat rows 2 and 3. Each row will have 37 dc.

Row 6: Ch 2, *Dc in the first 2 stitches, dc dec over the next two stitches* Repeat from *to* all the way around you will end with 1 dc. Sl st to the first dc to join. (28 dc)

Row 7: Ch 2, *In the third loop Dc 1, de dec over the next two stitches* Repeat from *to* all the way around, you will again, end with 1 dc. sl st to the first dc to join. (19 dc)

Row 8:  Ch 2, Dc dec over the first two stitches. Continue to dc dec all the way around ending with 1 dc. Sl st to first dc to join. (10 dc)

Fasten off leaving a long tail. Using the tail, sew the top of your beanie closed. I like to thread my needle through the front loop of each stitch, then pull tight to close. This gives it a nice clean close.

You can now weave in your ends and add a pom pom and tag if you’d like. 

6-12 Month Pattern 15-16 inch brim 

5.00mm hook or hook needed to obtain gauge 
  Gauge

4 inches by 4 inches = 14 sc across by 14 rows high

It very important that you meet gauge! If you do not your hats may not be the right size. To check your gauge, ch 15, sc in second chain from hook and all the way down the chain to get 14 sc. Ch 1 turn, then crochet all the way back down. Repeat this until you have 14 rows. Then measure your square. If it is not 4 inches by 4 inches. You will need to change your hook size. If it is too small, go up a hook size and try again. If it is too big, you will need to go down a hook size and try again until you get your square as close to 4 inches by 4 inches as possible. 

 Pattern

Brim: I crochet fairly loose and make my chains at the beginning of each row loose as well. If you crochet tighter you can either go up a hook size or just add more row to the band until you have a band length that stretches to 15-16 inches. This will fit most 6-12month old’s heads.

Ch 9

Row1: Beginning in second ch from hook sc 8 down the remaining chains. Turn. (8 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1. Sc blo in each stitch. Turn (8 sc)

Row 3-36: Repeat row 2. (8 sc in each row)

Join your beginning of you band and the end of your band in a circle by slip stitching 8 holding both ends together.

Now you will begin the body of the hat and work your way up.

Row 1: After you sl st your band together ch 1 and begin working around the side of your band. Sc 40 around the band. (I try to put one sc in the end of each row of the band and add 1 extra sc around every 10th sc.) Sl st to your first sc to join.

If you added more rows to your band be sure to sc in every row and add 4 extra sc as you go around. Your total number of rows plus 4 will be your total number of dc for each row until row 6.

Row 2: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around. Sl st to first dc to join. (40 dc)

Row 3: Ch 2, dc in the third loop all the way around. Sl st to first dc to join. (40 dc)

Row 4-5: Repeat rows 2 and 3. Each row will have 40 dc.

Row 6: Ch 2, *Dc in the first 2 stitches, dc dec over the next two stitches* Repeat from *to* all the way around. Sl st to the first dc to join. (30 dc)

Row 7: Ch 2, *In the third loop Dc 1, de dec over the next two stitches* Repeat from *to* all the way around. sl st to the first dc to join. (20 dc)

Row 8:  Ch 2, Dc dec over the first two stitches. Continue to dc dec all the way around. Sl st to first dc to join. (10 dc)

Fasten off leaving a long tail. Using the tail, sew the top of your beanie closed. I like to thread my needle through the front loop of each stitch, then pull tight to close. This gives it a nice clean close.

You can now weave in your ends and add a pom pom and tag if you’d like. 

12-24 month pattern 16-18 inch brim

5.5mm I Crochet hook or hook needed to obtain gauge. 

Gauge

11 sc across by 13 rows high is 4×4 inches.

 

It very important that you meet gauge! If you do not your hats may not be the right size. To check your gauge, ch 12, sc in second chain from hook and all the way down the chain to get 11 sc. Ch 1 turn, then crochet all the way back down. Repeat this until you have 13 rows. Then measure your square. If it is not 4 inches by 4 inches. You will need to change your hook size. If it is too small, go up a hook size and try again. If it is too big, you will need to go down a hook size and try again until you get your square as close to 4 inches by 4 inches as possible. 

 Pattern

Brim: I crochet fairly loose and make my chains at the beginning of each row loose as well. If you crochet tighter you can either go up a hook size or just add more row to the band until you have a band length that stretches to 16-18 inches. This will fit most 12-24 month old’s heads.

Ch 9

Row1: Beginning in second ch from hook sc 8 down the remaining chains. Turn. (8 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1. Sc blo in each stitch. Turn (8 sc)

Row 3-36: Repeat row 2. (8 sc in each row)

Join your beginning of you band and the end of your band in a circle by slip stitching 8 holding both ends together.

Now you will begin the body of the hat and work your way up.

Row 1: After you sl st your band together ch 1 and begin working around the side of your band. Sc 41 around the band. (I try to put one sc in the end of each row of the band and add 1 extra sc around every 9th  sc.) Sl st to your first sc to join.

If you added more rows to your band be sure to sc in every row and add 5 extra sc as you go around. Your total number of rows plus 5 will be your total number of dc for each row until row 7.

Row 2: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around. Sl st to first dc to join. (41 dc)

Row 3: Ch 2, dc in the third loop all the way around. Sl st to first dc to join. (41 dc)

Row 4-6: Repeat rows 2 and 3. Each row will have 41 dc.

Row 7: Ch 2, *In the third loop Dc in the first 2 stitches, dc dec over the next two stitches* Repeat from *to* all the way around, you will end with one dc. Sl st to the first dc to join. (31 dc)

Row 8: Ch 2, *Dc 1, dc dec over the next two stitches* Repeat from *to* all the way around ending with one dc. sl st to the first dc to join. (21 dc)

Row 9:  Ch 2, Dc dec over the first two stitches. Continue to dc dec all the way around, ending with 1 dc. Sl st to first dc to join. (11 dc) This row is NOT worked in the third loop. It is just worked as regular double crochets.

Fasten off leaving a long tail. Using the tail, sew the top of your beanie closed. I like to thread my needle through the front loop of each stitch, then pull tight to close. This gives it a nice clean close.

You can now weave in your ends and add a pom pom and tag if you’d like. 

Toddler Pattern 17-19 inch brim

5.00mm Crochet hook or hook needed to obtain gauge

   Gauge

4 inches by 4 inches = 14 sc across by 14 rows high

It very important that you meet gauge! If you do not your hats may not be the right size. To check your gauge, ch 15, sc in second chain from hook and all the way down the chain to get 14 sc. Ch 1 turn, then crochet all the way back down. Repeat this until you have 14 rows. Then measure your square. If it is not 4 inches by 4 inches. You will need to change your hook size. If it is too small, go up a hook size and try again. If it is too big, you will need to go down a hook size and try again until you get your square as close to 4 inches by 4 inches as possible. 

 Pattern

Brim: I crochet fairly loose and make my chains at the beginning of each row loose as well. If you crochet tighter you can either go up a hook size or just add more row to the band until you have a band length that stretches to 17-19 inches. This will fit most toddler’s (2-4 years old) heads.

Ch 10

Row1: Beginning in second ch from hook sc 9 down the remaining chains. Turn. (9 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1. Sc blo in each stitch. Turn (9 sc)

Row 3-45: Repeat row 2. (9 sc in each row)

Join your beginning of you band and the end of your band in a circle by slip stitching 9 holding both ends together.

Now you will begin the body of the hat and work your way up.

Row 1: After you sl st your band together ch 1 and begin working around the side of your band. Sc 50 around the band. (I try to put one sc in the end of each row of the band and add 1 extra sc after every 10th  stitch.) Sl st to your first sc to join.

If you added more rows to your band be sure to sc in every row and add 5 extra sc as you go around. Your total number of rows plus 5 will be your total number of dc for each row until row 9.

Row 2: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around. Sl st to first dc to join. (50 dc)

Row 3: Ch 2, dc in the third loop all the way around. Sl st to first dc to join. (50 dc)

Row 4-6: Repeat rows 2 and 3. Each row will have 50 dc.

Row 7: Ch 2, *dc in first 3 stitches in the third loop in each stitch, dc dec over next two stitches also in the third loop* Repeat from *to* all the way around. Sl st to first dc to join. (40 dc)

Row 8: Ch 2, *Dc in the first 2 stitches, dc dec over the next two stitches* Repeat from *to* all the way around Sl st to the first dc to join. (30 dc)

Row 9: Ch 2, *In the third loop Dc 1, dc dec over the next two stitches* Repeat from *to* all the way around. sl st to the first dc to join. (20 dc)

Row 10:  Ch 2, Dc dec over the first two stitches. Continue to dc dec all the way around. Sl st to first dc to join. (10 dc)

Fasten off leaving a long tail. Using the tail, sew the top of your beanie closed. I like to thread my needle through the front loop of each stitch, then pull tight to close. This gives it a nice clean close.

You can now weave in your ends and add a pom pom and tag if you’d like.

 

Children’s Pattern 18-20 inch brim 

5.5mm hook or hook needed to obtain gauge

Gauge

11 sc across by 13 rows high is 4×4 inches.

 

It very important that you meet gauge! If you do not your hats may not be the right size. To check your gauge, ch 12, sc in second chain from hook and all the way down the chain to get 11 sc. Ch 1 turn, then crochet all the way back down. Repeat this until you have 13 rows. Then measure your square. If it is not 4 inches by 4 inches. You will need to change your hook size. If it is too small, go up a hook size and try again. If it is too big, you will need to go down a hook size and try again until you get your square as close to 4 inches by 4 inches as possible.

 Pattern

Brim: I crochet fairly loose and make my chains at the beginning of each row loose as well. If you crochet tighter you can either go up a hook size or just add more row to the band until you have a band length that stretches to 18-20 inches. This will fit most Children’s heads.

Ch 10

Row1: Beginning in second ch from hook sc 9 down the remaining chains. Turn. (9 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1. Sc blo in each stitch. Turn (9 sc)

Row 3-45: Repeat row 2. (9 sc in each row)

Join your beginning of you band and the end of your band in a circle by slip stitching 9 holding both ends together.

Now you will begin the body of the hat and work your way up.

Row 1: After you sl st your band together ch 1 and begin working around the side of your band. Sc 50 around the band. (I try to put one sc in the end of each row of the band and add 1 extra sc after every 10th row.) Sl st to your first sc to join.

If you added more rows to your band be sure to sc in every row and add 5 extra sc as you go around. Your total number of rows plus 5 will be your total number of dc for each row until row 9.

Row 2: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around. Sl st to first dc to join. (50 dc)

Row 3: Ch 2, dc in the third loop all the way around. Sl st to first dc to join. (50 dc)

Row 4-8: Repeat rows 2 and 3. Each row will have 50 dc.

Row 9: Ch 2, *dc in first 3 stitches in the third loop in each stitch, dc dec over next two stitches also in the third loop* Repeat from *to* all the way around. You will end with just 3 dc. Sl st to first dc to join. (36 dc)

Row 10: Ch 2, Dc in each stitch all the way around. Sl st to first dc to join. Make sure you are only placing one stitch in the decrease from the previous row.  (36 dc)

Row 11: Ch 2, *In the third loop Dc in the first 2 stitches, dc dec over the next two stitches* Repeat from *to* all the way around. Sl st to the first dc to join. (27 dc)

Row 12: Ch 2, *Dc 1, dc dec over the next two stitches* Repeat from *to* all the way around. sl st to the first dc to join. (18 dc)

Row 13:  Ch 2, Dc dec over the first two stitches. Continue to dc dec all the way around. Sl st to first dc to join. (9 dc) This row is NOT worked in the third loop. It is just worked as regular double crochets.

Fasten off leaving a long tail. Using the tail, sew the top of your beanie closed. I like to thread my needle through the front loop of each stitch, then pull tight to close. This gives it a nice clean close.

You can now weave in your ends and add a pom pom and tag if you’d like. 

 

Adult size

Adult pattern 21-23 inch brim

5.5mm hook 
 Gauge

11 sc across by 13 rows high is 4×4 inches.

 

It very important that you meet gauge! If you do not your hats may not be the right size. To check your gauge, ch 12, sc in second chain from hook and all the way down the chain to get 11 sc. Ch 1 turn, then crochet all the way back down. Repeat this until you have 13 rows. Then measure your square. If it is not 4 inches by 4 inches. You will need to change your hook size. If it is too small, go up a hook size and try again. If it is too big, you will need to go down a hook size and try again until you get your square as close to 4 inches by 4 inches as possible.

 Pattern

Brim: I crochet fairly loose and make my chains at the beginning of each row loose as well. If you crochet tighter you can either go up a hook size or just add more row to the band until you have a band length hat stretches to 21-23 inches. This will fit most adults’ heads.

Ch 11.

Row1: Beginning in second ch from hook sc 10 down the remaining chains. Turn. (10 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1. Sc blo in each stitch. Turn (10 sc)

Row 3-50: Repeat row 2. (10 sc in each row)

Join your beginning of you band and the end of your band in a circle by slip stitching 10 holding both ends together.

Now you will begin the body of the hat and work your way up.

Row 1: After you sl st your band together ch 1 and begin working around the side of your band. Sc 55 around the band. (I try to put one sc in the end of each row of the band and add 1 extra sc after every 10th row.) Sl st to your first sc to join.

If you added more rows to your band be sure to sc in every row and add 5 extra sc as you go around. Your total number of rows plus 5 will be your total number of dc for each row until row 9.

Row 2: Ch 2, dc in each stitch around. Sl st to first dc to join. (55 dc)

Row 3: Ch 2, dc in the third loop all the way around. Sl st to first dc to join. (55 dc)

Row 4-9: Repeat rows 2 and 3. Each row will have 55 dc.

Row 10: Ch 2, *dc in first 3 stitches, dc dec over next two* Repeat from *to* all the way around. Sl st to first dc to join. (44 dc)

Row 11: Ch 2, Dc in the third loop in each stitch all the way around. Sl st to first dc to join. Make sure you are only placing one stitch in the third loop of the decrease from the previous row.  (44 dc)

Row 12: Ch 2, *Dc 2, dc dec over the next two stitches* Repeat from *to* all the way around. Sl st to the first dc to join. (33 dc)

Row 13: Ch 2, Dc in the third loop in each stitch all the way around. Sl st to first dc to join. Make sure you are only placing one stitch in the third loop of the decrease from the previous row.  (33 dc)

Row 14: Ch 2, *Dc 1, dc dec over the next two stitches* Repeat from *to* all the way around, sl st to the first dc to join. (22 dc)

Row 15:  Ch 2, Dc dec over the first two stitches. Continue to dc dec all the way around. Sl st to first dc to join. (11 dc) This row is NOT worked in the third loop. It is just worked as regular double crochets.

Fasten off leaving a long tail. Using the tail, sew the top of your beanie closed. I like to thred my needle through the front loop of each stitch, then pull tight to close. This gives it a nice clean close.

You can now weave in your ends and add a pom pom and tag if you’d like.

I hope you enjoyed the pattern, I can’t wait to see all your finished beanies. Tag me on Instagram @coz.e_creations or Facebook at Coz-E Creations Crochet by Elyssa. 

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